Category Archives: Tools and Equipment

DIY Edge Sander

My latest project isn’t quite a bowed psaltery, but it’s rather an edge sander… which will help me make more psalteries. :-)

Below are some pictures of the progress so far.

Idler drum

Idler roller

Partially assembled

Partially assembled

Drive drum (unmounted)

Drive roller (unmounted)

Springs/tension piece

Springs/tension piece

All this is via plans from PlansNow.com. So far, I’d highly recommend buying these plans: everything seems to be solid and well-designed.

Fresh Herringbone Card Scrapings

herringbone-scrapingsI was scraping a centerstrip of herringbone-style banding flush with a Wenge back when I thought it might make a cool picture.

When a card scraper is sharp, and it hits the back just right, it will peel off a nice layer of material. Here, it was peeling off thin layers of the herringbone pattern.

Such a simple, yet versatile too: long live the card scraper!

Bosch PS30 Cordless Drill Review

I recently got a new toy for use in building psalteries, and it works so well, I thought I’d write a review of it:

Bosch PS-30 Cordless DrillIt’s a new cordless drill from Bosch. It’s closely based on their incredibly successful PS20 Pocket Driver. But this time around, they’ve added something that’s indispensable to me: a chuck.

Having read all of the positive reviews, and having tested it out a few times at the local hardware store, I was well aware that the PS20 is a great drill. But, one of the main features I was looking for in a drill like this was the ability to drive in tuning pins: this meant that it would have to be able to grip the modified tuning wrench shaft that I use, not to mention the substantial torque required to drive in these pins. (The driver bit is simply the shaft of a T-handle tuning wrench, with the handle stripped off.) But, the 1/4″ quick-change socket on the PS20 prevented its use.

Looking at the pictures above and below, you can see that the new PS30 Cordless Drill has no problems gripping my specialized driver: owning to the fact that the PS30 has a 3/8″ keyless chuck.

Bosch PS30 with Bowed PsalteryTo the left you can see how the drill is used to drive the tuning pins into the psaltery’s body. Previously, I had used a much bigger (and heavier) 18v NiCad cordless drill to accomplish this task. Considering that this new drill has nearly the same amount of torque, (driving these pins in requires quite a good deal of torque from the drill), but weighs only 2.2 pounds (!), now I can consecutively drive all 60 pins without stopping due to discomfort or fatigue. (You wouldn’t think of it, but holding an 18-volt, 5-pound brick for a drill can get quite tiring rather quickly!)

Plus, because of the chuck, I can use it for a lot of other odd jobs with non-standard bit sizes: like 6mm brad point, etc. As soon as I read about the release of the PS30, I knew it would be perfect. To me, it really replaces two tools: the PS20, (which thankfully I hadn’t bought yet), and my older 18v cordless drill. (I still have my bigger 18v drill on hand for really tough jobs, but for the vast majority of the time, I find the PS30 superior.)

So, since the PS30 has replaced two tools for me, here’s my breakdown as to its advantages over both types of tools:

Bosch PS30’s Advantages over PS20 and other “Pocket Drivers”

  • 3/8″ Keyless chuck allows you to grip a much wider variety of bits and drivers, you’re no longer limited to just 1/4″ hex shank
  • Two-speeds allows this drill to be used to drill holes much faster than other drivers, as it can spin at up to 1,100 RPMs
  • Develops more torque in low-speed mode than most other drivers in its class: 221 inch-pounds of torque! (Nearly triple the torque of the PS20, and over double the torque of Milwaukee’s M12 Sub-Compact Driver.)

Bosch PS30’s Advantages over Larger Cordless Drills

  • Much smaller and lighter, without much sacrifice in terms of speed and torque: 0-380 rpm in first gear, 0-1,100 rpm in second gear; 221 inch-pounds of torque
  • New lithium ion battery technology can be recharged at any time, (i.e., trickle charge), without any memory effects
  • Batteries stay charged longer in between long periods of inactivity. So if it’s unused for several months, the batteries will still be at full charge and ready to go.
  • Compact design lets you get into tighter spaces that other drills cannot
  • Only weighing 2.2 pounds can signifcantly reduce user fatigue if you are doing a lot of repetitive tasks (I know this quite well firsthand)

This is just about the best drill I’ve owned or used. Since I originally got it, I’ve only had to reach for my bigger drill a couple of times, and that was because I needed the capacity of a 1/2″ chuck rather than a 3/8″. My only other complaint is that it would be nice to have some sort of on-board driver-bit storage. I like to have a #2 square driver and either a torx or a phillips on-board the drill at all times.

Check it out on Amazon to see more!

Notching Pins with a Dremel Stylus

Dremel Stylus with Bowed PsalteryI just thought I’d give a brief mention to a new tool I tried out today. As you may have already seen on my sister site: A Psimple Psaltery, I use a rotary tool to put notches in the tops of the hitch pins on all my bowed psalteries.

Today I used a new rotary tool for the notching: a Dremel Stylus. (Model # 1100-01, which is the only model of stylus available from Dremel, as far as I know…)

The verdict: I love it. In the above picture, you can see how small it is, with the bowed psaltery that I’ve just been working on in the background. What you probably can’t see in the picture is the perfect notches on that psaltery that were just cut with the Stylus.

The Dremel Stylus is small, lightweight, and well-balanced. I really like how much control it gives me in doing fine detail work like this. The variable speed is a plus too, though I’ll mostly be using it at full speed anyway.

I now own 5 different rotary tools, both corded and cordless, from Dremel, B & D, and Ryobi. This new one is without a doubt my favorite. About the only thing that I don’t think the stylus would be superior at is in very heavy/rough work, which is when I will bring out a corded tool; but in almost all other regards, I find it excellent.

I think one of the biggest advantages in a tool like this is the lithium ion battery. These new generation batteries run longer, and are much lighter than traditional NiCad or NiMH batteries. They also stay charged longer between uses, and can be charged in the middle of a cycle – IE before the battery is dead, or after only slight use. I really like the fact that this Dremel comes with a charging cradle, and since the battery can be charged at any time, it basically ensures that whenever I pick the tool up, it’s ready to go.

Performax 16-32 Drum Sander

Drum Sanded Striped Bowed Psaltery BackI’ve finally got one of my most sought-after stationary power tools: a drum sander. This sander has already sped up many laborious tasks in the first week I’ve used it.

To the left you can see an example of its work: a multi-piece striped bowed psaltery back. (This is going to be another one of the “Candyshop” bowed psalteries.) It is made of quilted maple and purpleheart.

Ordinarily, it would take me a very long time to clean up all of the glue lines and get everything sanded perfectly flat and level. Additionally, with the quilted maple, I was unable to use a planer or jointer on the piece, as the knives would simply tear out the grain. (But the sander is gentle with the maple’s figure and preserves the board’s integrity.)

Now, I can just set the bowed psaltery back on the conveyor belt, and let the sander do all of the work for me within seconds, and with a much greater degree of accuracy than is possible with hand sanding.

Pencils in the Miter Track

Pencils in Miter TrackHere’s a tip for any woodworkers or luthiers out there: if you’re at all like me, you’re always grabbing for a writing instrument to mark a board. Oftentimes they get “misplaced” or knocked around while working on a project. (I go through quite a number of pencils in any given week while making bowed psalteries.)

Well, as you can see from the photo on the left, here’s my cheap, somewhat quirky solution. Stash a whole bunch of pencils or other writing utencils in the miter tracks of your power tools. You could put pens, pencils, chalk, crayons, etc. in the standard miter tracks that come on many table saws and bandsaws. They sit below the surface of the table, and don’t interfere with regular cutting operations (unless you’re using a jig that makes use of the track, of course). Plus, they’re always in plain site and easy to find.

This has been another groundbreaking tip from Phantasy Psalteries. ;)

(And no, in case you were wondering from the photo, I’m not a Clevland Browns fan – it’s just a random pencil that I had lying around.)

A Little Baby…

Baby Table SawHere’s my newest toy: it’s a little baby 4″ table saw. (With a tube of ChapStick to show the size.)

I got this small saw to help me cut the bindings for all of my bowed psalteries. A full sized tablesaw seemed too big and wasteful, and a bandsaw still gave me fairly rough cross-cuts.

So now, this little saw fills that gap in nicely. It can easily cut the miters for the binding, and still leaves a smooth, finished cut. Best of all, it doesn’t take up very much shop space. ;)

Abralon Sanding Discs

Abralon Sanding DiscAt the picture to the left you will see one of my favorite sanding items. It’s called Abralon, and I use it when I am initially buffing out a bowed psaltery’s finish.  It’s a sanding disc that is basically made out of fabric, with a 1/4″ foam backing. These things are just plain great.

Just what’s so great about this thing?

Well, for starters, it basically never gets clogged. Ever. Sure, some finish can ball up on the surface, but it can always be blown off by a blast from a air compressor hose, or just by taking it off the sander and beating it between your hands.

Secondly, and the most important for me, it allows you to dry-sand a finish all the way up to 4000 grit. (Yes, 4000 grit.) The pad shown in the picture is actually a 4000 grit pad. It is amazing to me that it is possible to sand at this fine of a grit, without a lubricant, and still get a smooth, consistent finish. It sure beats MicroMesh, at least up to 4000 grit.

Third, they do seem to last a good long while. While the initial gritty feel to the surface of the disc is quickly lost, it still seems good at cutting long after its first use.

About the only downside is that since the pad is so soft, it is not good for leveling. For that I use a regular finish sander with standard sandpaper. But once any drips, sags, or any other surface irregularities are removed, Abralon really excels.

Well, the only other downside would be its price. Not exactly cheap at all, but certainly worth it in time saved in the arduous task of finishing the finish, at least for me anyway.

Microplane Sanding Discs

Well, I hate to make this “tool review week,” but I just couldn’t resist. I’ve been using a new product (new to me at least) for several weeks now, and I now feel confident enough to comment on it.

Microplane Sanding Disc What I’m talking about is a 5″ stainless-steel sanding disc meant to fit all hook-and-loop 8-hole random orbit sanders. It’s called a “Microplane” sanding disc, and I’ve tried all the grits (40, 80, and 120) and my favorite is definitely the 80.

Basically, instead of using sharp particles of abrasive to sand the surface like regular sandpaper, this product is made of perforated (and probably laser-cut) steel.

As with anything there are pros and cons. Here’s my take on this:

The Pros:

  • It cuts a lot faster than regular sandpaper. The best way I can describe it is that it cuts about as fast as you wish sandpaper would cut – not too fast, (like a belt sander), but not too slow.
  • It lasts a lot longer than regular sandpaper. See that picture above? That’s my only medium-grit disc that I have right now. I haven’t worn it out yet.
  • It’s just about impossible to clog or gum up one of these discs. It has a very open design, which allows the sander to collect a lot of dust, and also prevent any kind of clogging.

The Cons:

  • The Coarse (40 grit) and Medium (80 grit) both leave visible swirl marks in the wood, though they usually aren’t terribly hard to sand out. Basically, I disagree with their grit ratings, and would equate their medium grit with something closer to a 50-grit in regular sandpaper. And what they call coarse would be…. very coarse.
  • I feel that the coarse is simply too aggressive for all but the most extreme of situations, and depending on what kind of sander you have, (high quality, balanced handling help), it may be difficult if not impossible to control properly. Likewise, the fine (120 grit) isn’t all that different from regular sandpaper anyway. I really like just the medium disc.
  • You can’t do the trick where you tilt the sander on its side to focus in on one area. The sander must be kept completely level at all times. (Which can also be a “pro” too, because I like to use these discs for leveling surfaces.
  • It is mildly annoying to remove them from the velcro bottom of the sander. You can’t just yank them off like regular sandpaper, you have to be gentle with them so you don’t put a bend or crease in the metal.

So there’s my little mini-review. From looking above it may seem like there are more cons than pros, but I really like this product. The pros I listed are really good qualities to have, and most of the cons are mostly petty small stuff.

I recommend the Medium (80-grit equivalent) as a great way to sand out planer and saw marks, glue squeeze out, pore and grain filler excess, and a lot of other jobs that require fast, somewhat aggressive sanding. These discs last a long time.

A Burled Walnut Ring

I used a nifty new tool today to cut a burled walnut rosette ring. It is very similar to a standard circle cutter for a drill press, but instead of one cutter, it has two – one on each side.

By using two cutters, I can cut out both the inner and outer diameters of the ring simultaneously, and the arms are much more balanced.

Here’s a shot of the tool, along with the ring it cut in a matter of seconds. It was cut from a reinforced double-ply of burled walnut veneer.

Bowed Psaltery Rosette Ring Cutter

Tuning Pin Jig

When making a bowed psaltery for the first time, one of the most tedious tasks is laying out and measuring all the pins. Thankfully, there is an easy way to do this: with a jig.

Basically, I took a 1/2″ piece of plywood, cut it to the size of the psaltery, and inserted sharp self-piercing sheet metal screws where all of the tuning pins should go. It takes some extra time to make this jig, but once it is finished, it greatly accelerates the pin layout process.

Since the screws I used were 5/8″ long (in 1/2″ plywood), this leaves sharp 1/8″ long points at all the exact locations of the tuning pins.

Bowed Psaltery Tuning Pin Jig

All that is necessary is to carefully align the jig on top of the psaltery, and lightly tap on the jig with a mallet.Viola! 30 pin locations are instantly and perfectly transferred to the top of the psaltery. And since it is an actual indent, and not a pencil mark, it is that much easier to align the drill bit with the dimple.

Bowed Psaltery Tuning Pin Jig Top

You can see this jig at work sitting atop a psaltery that I recently finished. (I use a different jig for the hitch pins to allow more flexibility in the positioning, but this one works great for the tuning pins.)

Tim’s Psaltery

Since I forgot to update this blog on Monday, I guess I’ll make up for it today by making two posts!

I finally got my thin-kerf bandsaw blade in the mail today, and I was finally able to saw up the curly maple board I had wanted to use for the back of this psaltery. Since the blade is so thin, I was able to get two full bookmatched sets out of the one board. (Tim – just in case you needed a second one to match.)

Tim’s Bowed Psaltery - Curly MapleI dampened the back with mineral spirits to make the figure more visible for photography purposes. This is probably one of the best pieces of maple I have right now.

As you can see, the frame is assembled, and I simply set the back on top of it to show how it will look. I still have a ways to go though.

(more…)